Tienda La Illusion (Batesville, AR)

Several years ago Blair and I were introduced to an illegal Mexican restaurant that existed on the back porch of a house across from Baptist hospital. It had 4 white/red-checkered, covered tables, an old big screen television, and a cook station in the corner with a couple of gyro-style spits and a large Japanese steakhouse-style griddle. The porch was covered on all sides with blue and grey tarps, and from the outside appeared to be housing a weed-growing enterprise. The family who ran the establishment spoke very little English, except for their 5-6 year old daughter who functioned as the maĆ®tre d. She explained that there were only three items on the "menu" (no hard copies existed): tacos, gringos, and tortas. Gringos were quesadillas, named after the rare white person who ate at their table and the most likely patron to order such a thing. You can imagine how good the food here was.

I mention all this because the food at Tienda La Illusion in Batesville, AR is actually better. It's the kind of place my wife discovered by chance, we tried, and now I think about all the time. I crave it. This isn't your run-of-the-mill, standard Mexican fare found ubiquitously across Arkansas (though they do have some white cheese-dip, which I love). This is something special.

I've eaten here twice now and left speechless both times. I had the Orden de Taco (three tacos, rice and refried beans). The tacos I had were alambre-- a mixture of chopped beef and bacon/ham, onion, peppers, and magic. They have a salsa verde that will set your taste buds on fire. They make their own tortillas (corn in this case), marinade their own meat, and cook down their own beans. How do I know? Did I mention that this restaurant is in the middle of a Mexican grocery store in the middle of nowhere? You can buy all the unprocessed meats and vegetables and cheeses right from their counter. Their bakery is amazing-- generating all kinds of sweet and borderline savory treats.

The first time I ate at the Tienda, I remarked to my wife that this restaurant is the kind of place you should go to if you're nearby, but shouldn't necessarily make the 90 minute trek to Batesville for. I rescind that judgement. I think I would drive 90 minutes to eat here, because I came to one realization: if this place were back in Little Rock, I don't know that I would share my secret. 



Menu: 
A fantastic assortment of dishes you've never probably heard of. I want to try them all.

Food: 
Unbelievably good. Seasoned to perfection, lingering explosive tastes, hearty unctuousness, earthy, bright, fresh. Delicious.

Atmosphere
There are pinatas everywhere, the market is actually fun to peruse, but this ain't Chotchkies.  

Service: 

I'm going to be honest and say that the service is pretty marginal. They do refill your drink (eventually). They do notice you came in and sat down (eventually). They do try to explain things as best they can. They are very nice and very appreciative of your business. But fine dining this is not.