One of the gems of Little Rock lies at the base of Cantrell Hill, just around the corner from a collection of small, family run restaurants. Loca Luna has been a Little Rock staple for many years. Chef Mark Abernathy has done much for the food scene in Central Arkansas, and in my mind is one of 4 pioneering chefs trying to elevate cooking and expand palates in the greater Little Rock area.
Blair and I joined some friends for a much needed defervescence after a busy month in the Emergency Room and Clinic. What we settled on was Loca Luna, not only for the quality food but for the relaxed atmosphere and the wide variety of... libations.
 |
| 8oz Angus Filet with Potatoes, Steamed Vegies, Onion Rings |
Let me plainly state that Chef Abernathy knows how to season a steak: simply. With just a hint of pepper and enough salinity to make the premium dry-aged beef really shine, not to mention the all important bacon wrapper, the steak pops to the tastebuds as it melts in your mouth. The accoutrement are good, not spectacular, and the focus of the plate is, as it should be, on the steak.
My only critique of the restaurant is its self described "schizophrenic" menu. Instead of fusion food, the menu offers selections in different genres. Instead of marrying elements from Cajun, Mexican, Italian and French bistro cuisine, you can choose an item from each region. What results is a monstrous menu. It is such a waste of Chef Abernathy's talents to spread himself so thin, and a frustration to new patrons that don't know that Abernathy has a special touch with Latin flavors, or that his steaks are marvelous. I think that even though Loca Luna has been in Little Rock longer than I have, it is time to sit down with the menu and simmer until the stock has become demi-glace.
Menu: ★★★☆☆
Though wide and appealing, scattered and just a bit to "schizophrenic." Many delicious offerings, and an extra star given for the good wine list and a bar that isn't afraid of anything (A Manhattan please? Certainly, sir). It really needs to be simplified. Chef Abernathy either needs one more restaurant, or he needs white-out.
Food: ★★★★☆
Delicious. Seasoned and cooked beautifully, even on a busy night. The subtleties are impressive. One off for bizarre and non-nonsensical pairings on occasion (see mashed potatoes and gravy with steamed vegetables and onion rings). I suggest a steak or the ossobuco.
Atmosphere: ★★★★★
Eclectic Bistro decor. Dress casual. Low lit and warm. Outdoor seating with a surrounding terrace and Mediterranean feel. Clearly the biggest draw for this particular restaurant.
Service: ★★★★☆
Friendly and knowledgeable. Can help guide your decisions, make suggestions, and won't bat an eyelash at an abnormal request. Prompt and courteous.